Answers
the price could be anywhere from $10.00 to $10,000... the problem will be finding someone who wants it.. sadly sometimes people get things and it is appraised for a high amount and they automatically think they will get that for it.... but what it really comes down to is finding someone who wants what you have.... you will likely get more for it if you have more than one person interested in it...
I'm looking for a Pedersoli Swivel Barrel Muzzleloader. Preferably .50 caliber and over under. I have a couple of these guns already and want more so my sons can shoot them too. If you know of a place that has them or have one your self please respond! =]
What are the Barrel Swivels used for? I bought some with the Interlock Snaps so I could easily switch out the crank baits however I noticed when I used them. It made the crankbait go lower to the floor of the lake. I"m think it is b/c of the weight of the barrel so what is the purpose of these if not for the easy switch of lures. Is there something else that won't increase the weight.
Thanks!
Duolocks - just use these instead of the combo piece.
Here's a link to what they look like... http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0011850113061a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntt=duolock&Ntk=Products&sort=all&Go.y=0&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&_D%3Asort=+&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form1&Go.x=0&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1
(swivels, of any type, are used mainly to reduce line twist when joining two lines. ie. I use them when I fish with braid and have a leader of another material like mono or floro)
I have these 2 swivel occasional barrel chairs with hideous burnt orange 70's fabric. I want to recover them but have never done anything like this before- does anyone have good advice or know where I can look to get instruction?
Thanks!
If you are handy this shouldn't be too hard. Look to see how they are assembled and disassemble one at a time carefully, making sure to take note for when you have to put the chair back together. Use the pieces of fabric that you take off as patterns for the new fabric.
Good Luck!
I want to buy the Steyr Mannlicher Full Stock (stock to the end of the barrel) but want to make sure that it has a free floating barrel. I dont want to run into the issue of the stock messing with the integrity of the barrel after the passage of time. Even though you may think that wood wont bent metal, it will, even if it is ever so slight; at 200 meters it makes all the difference of a good kill shot or not. This has been an issue with other full stock rifles (from what i have learned and heard). I also want to make sure the sling swivel is attached only to the stock, not to the barrel through the stock. I have asked several weapon smiths but none I have spoken with know much about the Steyr Mannlicher Classic line. I am only looking for answers from fellow hunters, or weapon smiths who know the mannlicher classic line, so if you know the answer, or know where to find it, please place your answer. Thank you so much, and Waidmannsheil!!!
I have several Steyr firearms from past decades and they are really top quality. Unfortunately, I haven't seen one of the full stock rifles since I was a young man. It's a darn good question.....I ask myself this whenever I see a full stock .....how do they float the barrel. However, I know rifles like the Enfield Mk4 did it quite well.
Here's Steyr's USA contact...call them and ask.
STEYR ARMS, INC.
P.O. BOX 2609
CUMMING, GA. 30028
U.S.A.
Tel.: (770) 888-4201
Fax: (770) 888-4863
Oh, sorry, Germany, Deutschland
Albrecht Kind GmbH
Hermann-Kind-Str. 18-20
D-51645
Gummersbach
info@akah.de
I am a newbie angler with my first trolling gear. I got a pair rated for 30 lbs and have been eager to catch fish with it. Target are toothy species such as Wahoo, King Mackerel and Barracuda, with ocassional Trevally. Usual sizes are below 25 lbs.
I will be trolling deep diving plugs. I am planning to tie a bimini on the 30lb main line and connect it to about 6 feet of 60lb mono via an improved Albright knot. What would you recommend for the wire leader setup? How short of a cable should I rig for maximum effectivity? If I need to change lures often, should I do away with the barrel swivel and just use a snap at the end? How do I connect the wire to my mono?
Many Thanks!
Neo
Sounds like a lot of complicated rigging -- main line, double line, heavy leader, and wire leader -- especially for 20 pound class fish. The more knots and other connections, the more potential points for breakoffs.
In my experience trolling (albacore and tuna mainly, with some wahoo and dorado) you need heavy line to withstand the initial strike with the boat moving. After that, it's like fighting a fish hooked from a still boat. If your main line is 30 pound test, a few feet of heavier line near the end isn't likely to help much at the strike, and can only get in the way later on.
You can use a heavy leader for the teeth or to stand up to the wear and tear of the lure's motion, but there's no need for double-line or another leader in between the leader and the main line. But I've caught plenty of tuna (20-50 pounds) trolling with feathers or Rapala CD-18's tied directly onto the main line.
I believe the story on double line and long leaders is to allow a deckhand to handline a big fish the last few feet up to gaff, or to protect against the skin and tail of the fish chafing the line during a long fight -- necessary with huge marlin and tuna and sharks, but not with 20 pounders. My take on this is you're just adding more potential failure points to the system than necessary.
I would simply tie a swivel (or a locking snap swivel) to the main line with the best knot you know, then crimp a braided wire leader of 6 feet or so to the other end of the swivel (or crimp a loop in the end of the leader and use the locking snap swivel to fasten it to the main line.) 6 feet should be enough to keep the swivel connection from interfering with the action of the lure, but short enough that when you get the leader to the rod tip the fish is close enough to gaff.
(My other take on this is that 30 pound line is kind of light for offshore trolling -- you'll have to have your drag set just barely tight enough to keep the lures from pulling out line as you're moving, or else the initial strike will result in a quick breakoff. But that also depends on how fast you're trolling. On the west coast, trolling speed is often 8-10 knots, and diving plugs exert a huge amount of drag at that speed, so the drag has to be set pretty tight. If you're going slower, that won't be as much as a problem. We generally troll with 50-80 pound test.)
Best Smallmouth Bass Fishing
Smallmouth Bass Fishing Secrets
It is widely accepted that pound for pound smallmouth bass are the hardest fighting fish that there is, swimming in freshwater. If you've had the pleasure of catching a 2-3 pound smallmouth, you will undoubtedly agree. In this article I'm going to reveal a few secrets for fishing for Smallmouth Bass in the flowing water of rivers and streams. To me, fishing in rivers and streams is the only way to fish, and when there are smallmouth bass present in the river or stream that I'm fishing, these secrets have always been successful. If you think catching a 2-3 pound Smallmouth is fun (which it is) you need to try catching that same fish when there is current to deal with. Believe it or not, it's even more fun!
The actual angling for Smallmouth Bass in rivers and steams is exactly the same as angling for trout. The secret begins with only a few things: small barrel swivels, split shot sinkers, pre-tied gang hooks, and live worms. That's simple enough, huh? You can also add a bait bag into the mix, but it's not an integral part of the secret. A bait bag simply allows you to spend less time locating your bait, and more time with your line in the water (where it should be). You see, with the help of a bait bag your bait is always hanging right where you need it, rather than being stuffed in a pocket somewhere.
Here's the secret, in a nutshell, then I'll explain how to rig up. The secret is to present a live worm in the most natural way possible, as it tumbles naturally downstream with the current. In other words, you want your offering to look, as much as is possible, like a worm would if you simply threw it into the water. Only in this case, that worm will have hooks in it and will actually be bait.
...News
Fishing: Mill Lacs Lake America's walleye capital - Wisconsin State JournalWisconsin State Journal, WI - Jun 24, 2009
Fishing: Mill Lacs Lake America's walleye capitalThe other technique that we used with success was live-bait rigging with a ½-ounce egg sinker attached with a barrel swivel, a 6- to 8-foot fluorocarbon snell, a No. 8 circle hook and a whole nightcrawler or leech. Then, you would drift across the manyExaminer.com - Jun 22, 2009
The fish finder rig simply consists of a nylon sleeve connected to a duo lock snap swivel, which is passed through and allowed to slide free along the main line. A sinker is attached to the snap swivel and a barrel swivel is tied at the end of the main
Examiner.com - Jun 14, 2009
The two most common ways of rigging a live bunker is tying a hook and leader via a barrel swivel to the main line, or employing a fish finder rig. Whichever you prefer, both will work. However, the only time I will rely on a fish finder rig is when the
Examiner.com - Jun 22, 2009
consists of approximately 3 feet of 40-pound test fluorocarbon leaders with a dropper loop tied six inches above the sinker than another dropper loop tied six inches above the lower one with the remaining leader tied to a number 6 barrel swivel.
Examiner.com - Jun 14, 2009
Quite simply the fluke chrome ball is nothing more than a cannon sinker that is nickel plated with one brass wire eye connected to the main line, while the other brass wire eye is connected to a barrel swivel, which is connected to a hook or teaser